Festivals and public holidays
Three festivals shut the country down and are worth planning around — one of them is the biggest water fight on earth.
6 min read
Cambodia has more public holidays than almost any country, and three of them matter enormously: Khmer New Year in April, Pchum Ben in September or October, and the Water Festival in November. During each, transport fills, prices move and much of the country goes home to its village. Knowing when they fall turns a logistical problem into the best week of the trip.
Khmer New Year — mid-April
Three official days that stretch to a week in practice. Cities empty as everyone travels to their home province; temples fill with offerings; and in the streets, water and talcum powder are thrown at anyone within range, visitors emphatically included. Siem Reap runs an enormous public celebration around the Angkor park.
Practically: book transport and hotels weeks ahead, expect many restaurants and shops to close for several days, keep your phone in a sealed bag, and do not wear anything you mind getting soaked.
Pchum Ben — September or October
The fifteen-day ancestors’ festival, the most solemn and most important religious observance of the year. Families visit seven pagodas to offer food to monks on behalf of the dead. It is quiet rather than spectacular, and it is a privilege to be invited to a pagoda for it. The final three days are public holidays and the country largely stops.
Bon Om Touk, the Water Festival — November
Three days marking the moment the Tonlé Sap river reverses its flow at the end of the monsoon. Hundreds of longboats crewed by whole villages race on the river at Phnom Penh in front of well over a million spectators, with illuminated floats at night and fireworks. It is the single biggest event in the Cambodian calendar and the capital is unrecognisable during it.
The rest of the calendar
Visak Bochea in May marks the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death, with candlelit processions at pagodas. The Royal Ploughing Ceremony, also in May, opens the rice season with sacred oxen whose choice of food is read as the year’s forecast. Independence Day is 9 November and the King’s birthday in mid-May; both bring parades and closures but little disruption for a visitor.
Common questions
Should I avoid travelling during Khmer New Year?
No — but book everything in advance and accept that the country is on holiday, not at work. It is one of the most joyful weeks of the year to be here.
Are the temples open on public holidays?
Angkor is open every day of the year. Working pagodas are not only open but at their most alive during festivals.
បន្តអាន
Culture and etiquette
The handful of gestures that mark you as a considerate guest — and the two or three mistakes visitors make without noticing.
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Khmer food is the quietest great cuisine in South-East Asia. Ten dishes, where to find them, and how to eat street food safely.
Khmer words worth learning
Fifteen phrases, phonetically. Nothing changes a trip here faster than the first three.
